TIA (this is africa) -- Malawi wrap and Zambia

Hey gang,

So, if our first amazing week hanging out on the shores of Lake Malawi wasn't enough, we killed the urge with our second and even better week on the lake islands of Chizimulu and Likoma. Tatyana and I--and a motley crew of british, irish and aussie travelers we collected in Nkhata Bay--spent four great days lounging on the very isolated beach at Wakwenda Retreat on the not-so-often-visited island of Chizimulu. This is the experience guys, the thing you were looking for after watching THE BEACH and wishing you could find a place where tourism has not completely polluted the culture. Such a fun time! There was nothing to do but lounge, explore the waters, play games, and eat waaay too well.... all to the tune of about US$30 a day.

Since most travelers crossing the lake on the ferry stop in at Likoma Island, we decided to spend only an overnight there, reaching it by one of the crudest water crafts I have ever stepped foot on, and an awesome feat of human ingenuity at that. We paid these fisherman the equivalent of a buck each to sail us from one island to the next -an amazing way to travel. Because they were going back to their village, which was on the opposite end of the island from our final destination, we hoofed it through the bush to the lodge...only about an hour (small island) but HOT.

We quickly rewarded ourselves with cheap "greens" and a cool swim. BTW, Carlsberg has a lock on Malawi, so there are only about four beer choices, all of which are Carlsberg (and named per the color of their label).

Speaking of beer, a quick backtrack to Nkhata Bay:

The local maize beer (called "shake-shake", because you have to shake it thoroughly to mix up the corn meal in it) is absolutely sickening. It was aptly described to us before hand as "tasting like vinegar and sick", and that is about as close as I can describe the taste.... literally like someone threw up vinegar in a carton, sealed it, and set it in the sun for a few days before shipping it. In fact, by the time the carton (which costs all of about $.50 US) reaches point of sale, it is so bloated with corn fart that it nearly pops when you open it. We all took a sip, wiped the tears from our eyes, and then Tatyana passed the rest of the carton to an old man who clearly did not need ANY more shake-shake.... but was very happy to accept it. Good one, Tatyana!

The picture above is of me and one of the locals trying to maneuver in a dugout -very difficult when you try it with both of your feet in...and nearly impossible when you try with three guys... Tatyana took video... we'll get it posted eventually...

Back to the islands... after an amazing week escaping reality on the islands, we got back on the Ilala (the Lake Malawi ferry, which was actually DE-commissioned 40 years ago, but brought back into service when its replacement went tits-up and drowned a LOT of people) which is a sick old vessel, and made our way back to Nkhata Bay. We decided to return on second class (because first class is open-deck and it rained all the way TO the islands... miserable) which was ok until it cooled in the middle of the night and everyone who was outside crammed into this small indoor space to get dry and warm.... and then the water got rough, and eyes began to swim, and I'll leave the rest to you. Suffice to say that you must take the bad with the good in Malawi, and while there is so very much good there, transportation constitutes most of the bad... and transportation in Malawi is BAAAAAAD... Again, we'll tell you over beers sometime. Overall, Malawi was one of the coolest places we have ever been. There is no wonder that so many expats (mostly from Europe and South Africa) choose to make it their permanent residence. But in a few years, tourism will take hold and it will all be ruined. So go now, while you can, and head straight for the islands...

After the lake, we spent a day in Lilongwe (the capital), where we treated ourselves to the two things we have been dreaming about for weeks: ice cream and cheese. We stayed at the local backpackers, named Mufasa, which had amazing showers and an open kitchen--we cooked dinner with friends on the cheap. We said goodbye to our friends Nick and Clare after over a month of traveling on-and-off together. They are headed back north to Uganda, Kenya, and Rwanda. We jumped a bus south into Zambia. And after yet another aching day of travel, arrived in Lusaka, the capital, where we are resting for a day before heading tomorrow to Livingstone and Victoria Falls. Lusaka is extremely developed. Thanks in no small part to the volume of expats operating here, this city is fairly modern, with boutique shopping centers that rival our own. It has been a nice break to eat well (more ice cream and cheese... and tatyana's first latte of the trip) before heading south. Just less than a month left, and we still have six countries to visit. Crazy... got to get to it. More from Victoria Falls.